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Handle scales and bolsters
Hello Ed,
I was wondering how thick the scales are for your ebk and other small knives are? I’ve been using 3/8 inch stock for larger knives and I’m tired of sanding it down so much.
My next question is, do stainless steel bolster material and pins have to be the same material for them to be seamless and not noticeable? Example is 416 with 416 or can I use a 300 series pins. I figured I would ask before doing my own experiments to see.
thank you for your time and knowledge,
Garrett
Hi Garrett!
That can be a tricky answer. Why? because it's not a "one size fits all" answer. Much depends on the TYPE of handle material. Most of my EBKs use synthetic handle materials (G10 or versions of micarta) in a 1/8" or 3/16" starting thickness. (standard EBKs get 1/8" and EBK Max gets 3/16") I can get away with handle material that thin because G10/Micarta are so tough, and will not check or crack like natural handle materials in the same thicknesses. Also, IF using natural handle materials, it depends on which variety..... for thin wood scales, I tend to use either African Blackwood or Desert Ironwood....both will hold up well in thin sections, provided I don't bang them around too much. All bets are off when it comes to exotics such as fossil ivories, shell, or pearl materials. If you get too thin on any of those, they will sometimes check or crack of seemingly their own volition. 🙂
To the question of Stainless bolster and pin stock.... ABSOLUTELY YES! The pin(s) WILL be visible if you don't use the same type of bolster and pin stock. I even will call whomever I order bolster/pin stock from, and try to get barstock and pin stock from the same lot numbers, just to be sure.
Another huge mistake that is made with bolsters... is makers who "heat treat" one part...but not the other. Typically its bolsters being heat treated, but not the pins, and then the maker can't figure out why the pins won't "disappear" when the bolster is being finished down. 😉 Same thing happens with Damascus... there is a totally different appearance between heat treated and non-heat treated...even from the same billet/bar. So either heat treat both the bolsters and the pin, or don'theat treat either one. 😉
Hope that's helpful!
Hello Ed, I was talking with D and trying to figure out how to peen the pins on a full tang knife. After watching many videos from other people, is it better to peen after the epoxy dries with removable pins or peen with wet epoxy? Do you add the lanyard hole and press it after the epoxy dries? I’m not sure if this is already in a video of yours or not. I’m really trying to get rid of the epoxy ring on an oversized hole. I’ve tried fitting 1/8 inch pins in an 1/8 inch hole but bent the pin. Oversized holes are the only thing I’ve gotten to work so far.
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