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Anvil purchase

Looking to upgrade to a large anvil. From the articles I have read and the people I have spoken with the “buy once cry once” philosophy is a good path to follow. 
Any input would be greatly appreciated. 

I would have to agree with the "Buy Once....Cry Once" mindset, ESPECIALLY when it comes to anvils.  A Quality anvil is so much more than just a big hunk of steel.  It makes things so much easier than a poor quality (typically that can be translated into "cheaper").   

  In the current atmosphere of "Forged In Fire", anvil prices, along with most everything else having to do with Bladesmithing have gone through the roof, and in many cases are grossly overpriced.   There was a time when $5-$6 per pound was a fair price for a good, clean, quality anvil..... these days that number has jumped to $8-10 per pound, and in some cases even higher.      Everyday I see "anvils" being sold online that are good for nothing other than a boat anchor.  With the owner(s) believing that since it's shaped like an anvil, it's worth a mint.    How do you tell the difference between a "boat anchor" and a good quality anvil?   The easiest method is a 1/2-1" diameter ball bearing.

  From about 1 foot above the anvil face....drop the ball bearing.  How far it rebounds is a key determining it's quality.   If the ball bearing returns to your hand, or higher....your looking at a high quality anvil.  If the ball bearing doesn't rebound, or rebounds only slightly..... walk away.    Along with the rebound, also look at the overall condition.  I've only purchase a couple of anvils in my time that did not require machining to fix the face(s)..... so factor that cost into your purchase for a "using anvil".   

  There are a few outfits that are offering decent quality new anvils..... but that's another rabbit hole we can go down if you'd like to. 😉   Lemme know and we can.    

  Best of Luck on finding the anvil YOU need.

Ed Caffrey, ABS Mastersmith "The Montana Bladesmith" "Nobody Cares What you Know, Until they Know You Care!"

Thank you for all the great information. 
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. 
I’m hoping to receive some training from you next May if your schedule permits, I believe it will strongly reinforce the Intro to Bladesmithing course I will be attending at Texarkana in April. 
Sorry for rambling. Thank you again. 
Robert Loveland,  Idaho Falls idaho. 

OK.... I think we all have our personal favorites, and hopefully others will chime in, but let's look at what's available out there....

First, Used anvils.  IF you buy from this category DO NOT BUY SIGHT UNSEEN!  If it's worth buying, it's worth getting there in person and giving it a good, hard examination.  Some names that I would recommend are Fisher, Peter-Wright, Trenton (my person fav), Kolishwa,  honestly, any anvil that will pass the "ball bearing test" that I mentioned previously.  First, it the face of the anvil (the part you work/hammer on).  It MUST be FLAT and clean.  A few pits are to be expected with a used anvil, but too many will hinder you work.  IF the face needs work.... take it to professionals to have the face milled/refinished, and figure that cost into the sale price/when your negotiating.  BEWARE of anything that says "cast".  With the exception of Fisher and Kolsha, I am unaware of any "old" anvils that are cast.  Typically that word really means "cast iron".... with is worthless for our purposes.  

New One of the few good things that Forged in Fire has done is bring about some more choices in new anvils.  Some of the "new kids on the block" that I have used and can personally recommend are Emerson (200lb), JHM, and Kanca.  

 Weight:  I personally recommend AT LEAST 120lb anvil.  There are a lot of old "formulas" floating around about about hammer to anvil weight ratios..... and for the most part they do hold some water, but for a first anvil, just stick with 120lb or more and you'll be fine.  Remember.... you can do little work on a big anvil...but you simply cannot do big work on a little anvil.  So for the most part, "Bigger is better" DOES apply to anvils. 🙂  I own everything from a 85lb Kolishwa, to a 509lb Peter-Wright.   My "Daily Driver" is a 300lb Trenton.  Also beware of "Farrier" anvils.  While some are "quality" these type anvils typically are lighter in weight, and designed specifically for working with horse shoes.  

  Keep in mind that the anvil is the centerpiece of your tools.  If you get a poor quality anvil, all the other "good" tools in the world will not makeup for it's downfalls.     

 

  Best of luck and feel free to post up/ask about any anvil you run across that you think might be for you.  

 

 

Ed Caffrey, ABS Mastersmith "The Montana Bladesmith" "Nobody Cares What you Know, Until they Know You Care!"

Once again thank you 

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